Professional Makeup Artist | Organic Chemist | Educator

Monday 4 July 2016

How To - Define a Hooded Eye Crease

Hooded Eye Tutorial

Hey guys! Today I am going to tackle the question I get answered the most. A lot of people with hooded eyes feel at a disadvantage because they don’t have a lot of lid space and their crease is not naturally deep. That’s understandable since most of the looks we see on Instagram feature models with doe eyes, sharp crease and large lid space. The drag techniques so popular these days like huge winged liner, severe creases, lid focused looks, giant falsies cannot be applied to hooded eyes for the most part. So when a person with hooded eyes fails to recreate them they are disappointed.

First of all, every eye shape is beautiful and has its own unique advantages. Hooded eyed beauties can flaunt their crease unlike any other. Some of the most gorgeous and famous international celebrities have hooded eyes and they rock their natural features confidently. Anyone know Gigi Hadid, Blake Lively, Jennifer Lawrence, Selena Gomez, Taylor Swift, Catherine Zeta Jones, Emma Stone or Rachel McAdams? Makeup is about definition not changing your features. This is the no.1 mistake hooded eyed ladies make. 

I have partially hooded eyes with uneven hoods and a prominent hood on days when I am tired or my eyes are swollen for some reason. Follow the steps below to respect your natural shape and bring out your eyes.


Step by Step Tutorial

I used BH Cosmetics 120 shade 5th edition palette and their Carli Bybel palette one for the golden lid shade. In the video, I applied a light warm matte brown as the transition colour unlike the pictorial. Its purpose is to show you placement and blending.

Step 1: Prep Your Eyes
You can’t blame the shadow then you skip eye primer or any sort of base (Makeup Revolution Focus and Fix eye primer-Matte) and don’t lock it in with a mattifying powder (Catrice Prime and Fine translucent powder).

Prepare Eyes Makeup Revolution Primer Catrice Powder

Step 2: Transition
You need a shade that your actual crease colour may blend into preferably be matte. I used a slightly shimmery one here because I don’t own a matte like this and I really wanted to show you how a warm tan, mustard, orange can bring out amazing contrast. You will need a big fluffy brush like Morphe MB23

Tutorial Hooded Eyes Morphe MB23

Step 3: Crease 
Place this right into the socket with a fluffy brush (pointed ones can be very painful) so it blends into your transition but sits below it and above the lid. I used a warm matte medium brown.

Hooded Eyes Tutorial Morphe MB23

Step 4: Deepen Crease
I don’t usually use black but I know most people don’t think drama can be achieved without black. Here I used a matte black in the outer crease only (not the outer corner of the lid!) using DMGM Eye Smudge brush, which is dome shaped but not s narrow.  Remember to gently blend it with a fluffy brush to avoid looking harsh. 

Tutorial Hooded Eyes DMGM Eye Smudge

Step 5: Lid Shading
Look straight in the mirror to find your mobile lid. Your lid colour cannot go outside this zone. Shimmer in the crease will destroy the hard work you just did to make your crease recede. Pat it on gently with a lid brush like Colorstudio Pro shader.

Hooded Eyes Tutorial Colorstudio Pro shader brush

Step 6: Lower Lash Line
Blend the transition and crease shades in the lower lash line to create a similar gradient effect with any brush you prefer.

Hooded Eyes Tutorial DMGM Eye Smudge

Apply mascara and tightline. You can add some highlight to the inner corner and brow bone as you wish. I paired these eyes with Colourpop Ultramatte lip in Clueless and Makeup Revolution powder blush in Now.

Hooded Eyes Basic Tutorial

Tutorial for Hooded Eyes



How do you prefer to define a hooded crease?

Love,
Sadaf

Disclaimer: This is a personal blog edited by its owners and the opinions expressed here belong solely to its owner's. For questions and queries please email at thepoutpainter@gmail.com

6 comments:

  1. Really helpful post. I have kinda deep set half hooded eyes and my crease is really tricky to work with. Your post helped much. And you look gorgeous like always <3

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Happy to know it helped you in some way :) Thank you :*

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  2. Very informative! When I started doing eye makeup initially, I always had a hard time in defining my eye crease area. Loved the way you explained everything :)

    www.salmashaheensblog.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That was my goal. Happy to know it was effective for you :)

      Delete

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